sea notes
7 days ago | 0 
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Surfers love the ocean, and yet their (our) knowledge of it generally extends no further than a few hundred yards off shore. Riding waves has proven so fun that most of us stay mesmerized and never...
21 days ago | 0 | 1 |
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There must be a better name for surf stuff than accessories. I don’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings but “accessories” usually refer to those brown handbags that cost more than my last trip to Baja...
1 month ago | 0 | 1 |
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I’ve known J.P. St. Pierre for nearly as long as his parents have. I recall him eating sand and dirtying his diaper while his parents, Sally and Peter, took turns cleaning him up before paddling ou...
1 month ago | 0 | 2 |
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It looks like Cardiff is suffering sympathy pains for the Gulf oil spill, red tide coloring the lineup a muddy red until nighttime when the waves glow like a southern, aquatic version of the northe...
2 months ago | 0 | 2 |
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My poor wife was tired of my petty whinings: May gray, real estate signs littering the sidewalks, massive sweepers shutting me out of Cardiff and the normally benign phrase, “Thank you so much” (dr...
2 months ago | 0 | 1 |
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With nearly half a century of surfing behind me, I have met most of my surfing heroes — the ones who hung on my bedroom wall in immortal stances, the stars of both “Endless Summer” movies, iron men...
3 months ago | 0 | 1 |
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I didn’t know his real name and never bothered to ask. He was introduced to me as Blaze, and even those that know him by his professional name, Doctor Baniadam, agree that it fits. Well, maybe not ...
9 months ago | 0 | 7 |
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I don’t recall when I first met Jesse Schluntz, but he made an impact on my life and continues to do so. He’s a driven artist, a perfectionist, perhaps sent there by that last name which doesn’t se...
3 months ago | 1 | 6 |
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I knew Robert Wald before I ever met him in the mid ‘80s. Well, not really knew him, but knew about him — mostly from that stunning photo of his, where his friend, the now deceased Stan Lewis, is s...
3 months ago | 0 | 1 |
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So, there will be no surf contest at Swami’s. I, for one, am glad, but wish the best to those who want to hold the event elsewhere. And, like those who fought on either sides of this issue, I am ti...
4 months ago | 0 | 1 |
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It’s really windy today, without a decent wave in sight. Too windy even for the kite boarders it seems, since the Cardiff lineup is empty. And so my thoughts wander to other activities, like boxing...
4 months ago | 0 | 2 |
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From late January through this writing in late February, the surf has been pounding — not really huge, but sizeable and sometimes well shaped and glassy or offshore. Got a nice day at Swami’s bef...
5 months ago | 0 | 3 |
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The surf’s been good, but I haven’t been on it. Blame it on a go-kart injury — I was showing off, trying to pass my wife, and hit the wall. Ouch! Water never does that to you, not unless you are ov...
5 months ago | 0 | 7 |
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Everything is wet. The ocean is too wet. Too big, cold and nasty to paddle out and get swatted. Not at my age. I mean, last Saturday I watched half a dozen sit in the pack at Swami’s on a stormy ev...
6 months ago | 0 | 2 |
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I first saw Stand-Up-Paddle (SUP) surfing in Waikiki when Hawaiian beach boy Bobby Achoy used one to take photos of tourists in the late ‘70s. Since then, Laird Hamilton and a few others have launc...
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